History And Heritages
The region is rich in historical and archeological sites since it was the hub of an ancient civilization. The ancient road is also home to four world heritage sites, including the only natural cultural places in the country , the Simien Mountains National Park.
Main attractions
Ethiopia’s holiest cities, Lalibela is famous for its rock-cut churches. The Capital city of the Kingdom of Aksum is one of the oldest inhabited places in Africa. Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile. The Royal Palaces of Gondar, and unique landscape and endemic fauna of Simien Mountains.
Gondar
Gondar is a Royal and ancient historical city of Ethiopia. It is the home of many Emperors
and Princess who lead the country from the 12th century to the last decade of the 20th
century. To mention just a few, Emperor Suseneos, Emperor Fasiledes, Empress Mentwab,
Iyasu I, Tewodros II, Empress Taitu. It is the home of the highest mountain in Ethiopia, Ras
Dashen, and the Simien Mountains National Park.
It is easy to imagine the intrigue and pageantry that took place back in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, when Gondar, then the Ethiopian capital, was home to a number of emperors and warlords, courtiers and kings. One only has to stroll through the banqueting halls and gaze down from the balconies of the many castles and palaces here to drift back into a long-ago world of battles and court conspiracies.
Nestled in the foothills of the Simien Mountains in north¬western Ethiopia, Gondar became the capital during the reign of Emperor Fasilidas (1632-1667), who built the first of a number of castle-like palaces to be found here.
Gondar Castle, dubbed the Ethiopian Camelot, is not a single castle, but instead is the name given to the entire complex of castles and palaces in the area. The oldest and most impressive of Gondar’s imperial structures is the two-storied palace of Emperor Fasilidas, built of roughly hewn brown basalt stones held together with mortar. Said to have been the work of an Indian architect, the building-has a flat roof, a rectangular tower in the south-west corner — which affords a distant view of Lake Tana and four smaller domed towers.
Gondar was the site of numerous fine churches, a number of which have survived to this day. Perhaps the finest of the Gondarine churches is that of Debre Birhan Selassie or ‘Light of the Trinity’, which stands on raised ground about a half an hour’s walk to the north-east. An imposing rectangular structure, its ceilings are decorated with beautiful winged angels and its walls with impressive scenes depicting biblical events, including the lives of Christ, Mary, the saints and the martyrs.
It is easy to imagine the intrigue and pageantry that took place back in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, when Gondar, then the Ethiopian capital, was home to a number of emperors and warlords, courtiers and kings. One only has to stroll through the banqueting halls and gaze down from the balconies of the many castles and palaces here to drift back into a long-ago world of battles and court conspiracies.
Nestled in the foothills of the Simien Mountains in north¬western Ethiopia, Gondar became the capital during the reign of Emperor Fasilidas (1632-1667), who built the first of a number of castle-like palaces to be found here.
Gondar Castle, dubbed the Ethiopian Camelot, is not a single castle, but instead is the name given to the entire complex of castles and palaces in the area. The oldest and most impressive of Gondar’s imperial structures is the two-storied palace of Emperor Fasilidas, built of roughly hewn brown basalt stones held together with mortar. Said to have been the work of an Indian architect, the building-has a flat roof, a rectangular tower in the south-west corner — which affords a distant view of Lake Tana and four smaller domed towers.
Gondar was the site of numerous fine churches, a number of which have survived to this day. Perhaps the finest of the Gondarine churches is that of Debre Birhan Selassie or ‘Light of the Trinity’, which stands on raised ground about a half an hour’s walk to the north-east. An imposing rectangular structure, its ceilings are decorated with beautiful winged angels and its walls with impressive scenes depicting biblical events, including the lives of Christ, Mary, the saints and the martyrs.
Lalibela
Lalibela is one of Ethiopia’s holiest places, dating back to the 12th century. Lalibela
town, formerly known as Roha, named after one of the then Ethiopian rulers, King
Lalibela (1181-1221), a member of the Zagwe dynasty. Lalibela is known by the amazing
eleven churches hewn from solid rock. Built in the twelfth century, they are still standing
in excellent condition. Most consider them as the eighth wonder of the world, and is
one of the world heritage sites listed by UNESCO.
The churches are carved from soft volcanic rock, some cut into the face of a cliff, while others are isolated structures in deeply carved pits with long access passages or trenches. The earliest carved monuments may not have been churches, but in the 10th and 11th centuries AD sophisticated churches of diverse styles were created, with architectural features that scholars believe originated in ancient Aksum, which flourished up to 800 years previously. The finest examples are three-aisle or five-aisle basilicas, carved inside and out, with window openings as well as detailed geometric ornamentation.
King Lalibela oversaw the final extension of the church complex. This may have been to create an Ethiopian place of pilgrimage as an alternative to Jerusalem, which had been captured early in King Lalibela’s reign by the Muslim Salah-ad-Din (known in the West as Saladin). This is reflected in local place names such as the “Church of Golgotha” (now containing the purported tomb of King Lalibela), “Yordanos” (Jordan) for the seasonal river that runs through the complex, and a nearby hill called “Debra Zeit” (meaning Mount of Olives).
The most famous of the churches at Lalibela is “Beta Giyorgis” (The House of Saint George). It is not part of an interconnected complex, but stands on its own on a plinth in a rectangular pit 11 metres deep, with a 30 metre long approach trench. It has blind lower windows, in an Aksumite style, with higher open windows central to each face when viewed from the outside.
The churches are carved from soft volcanic rock, some cut into the face of a cliff, while others are isolated structures in deeply carved pits with long access passages or trenches. The earliest carved monuments may not have been churches, but in the 10th and 11th centuries AD sophisticated churches of diverse styles were created, with architectural features that scholars believe originated in ancient Aksum, which flourished up to 800 years previously. The finest examples are three-aisle or five-aisle basilicas, carved inside and out, with window openings as well as detailed geometric ornamentation.
King Lalibela oversaw the final extension of the church complex. This may have been to create an Ethiopian place of pilgrimage as an alternative to Jerusalem, which had been captured early in King Lalibela’s reign by the Muslim Salah-ad-Din (known in the West as Saladin). This is reflected in local place names such as the “Church of Golgotha” (now containing the purported tomb of King Lalibela), “Yordanos” (Jordan) for the seasonal river that runs through the complex, and a nearby hill called “Debra Zeit” (meaning Mount of Olives).
The most famous of the churches at Lalibela is “Beta Giyorgis” (The House of Saint George). It is not part of an interconnected complex, but stands on its own on a plinth in a rectangular pit 11 metres deep, with a 30 metre long approach trench. It has blind lower windows, in an Aksumite style, with higher open windows central to each face when viewed from the outside.
THE ELEVEN CHURCHES OF LALIBELA
Bet Abba Libanos
(Church of Abba Libanos) This rectangular church is in the eastern part of the complex,
and is carved on all four sides, but is continuous with the rock above it. It is linked to a
structure known as Bet Lehem.
Bet Gabriel and Rufael
(Church of Saints Gabriel and Raphael) This church is in the eastern part of the
complex, and has a courtyard extending its north and south walls.
Bet Golgotha and Bet Mikael
(Church of Golgotha and Saint Mikael) The interconnected churches of Bet Golgotha
and Bet Mika’el form the most mysterious complex in Lalibela. Its holiest shrine — the
Selassie Chapel — is housed here, and, according to the whispers of the priests,
perhaps even the tomb of King Lalibela himself. Some of the most beautiful
processional crosses of Lalibela are here.
Bet Medhane Alem
(Church of the World Saviour) This church is in the northern part of the complex, and
perhaps the oldest of the Lalibela churches. Bet Medhane Alem is the largest of all the
Lalibela churches. Built like a Greek temple, it is unusual, being entirely surrounded by
square columns, with a further forest of twenty-eight massive rectangular columns
supporting the roof inside.
Bet Maryam
(Church of Mary) This rectangular church is the most ornate of the Lalibela churches
and is surrounded by a trapezoidal courtyard.
Bet Danagel
(Church of the Virgins)This church is carved into the south wall of the courtyard of Bet
Maryam. It is the most roughly hewn of the Lalibela churches.
Bet Giyorgis
(Church of Saint George) North of the Jordan River, but much further to the west, and
somewhat isolated from the others, is the remarkable church of Bet Giyorgis, possibly
the most elegant of all the Lalibela structures, located in the south-west of the village on
a sloping rock terrace. In a deep pit with perpendicular walls, it can only be reached
through a tunnel entered a distance away through a trench. Small round caves and
chambers have been found in the courtyard walls — graves for devout pilgrims and
monks. This famous church stands alone in the southwest. Dating to the early 13th
century AD, it is the most recently built of the Lalibela churches.
Standing on a three-tiered platform, Bet Giyorgis is shaped like a Greek cross and has
walls — with an alternation of projecting and recessing horizontal layers — reminiscent
of Axumite architecture. The church also has an elaborately shaped doorway.
Sellassie Chapel
This is a small, rough, trapezoidal structure in the western part of the complex, related to
the Bet Golgotha complex.
Bet Amanuel
(Church of Saint Emmanuel) This church is in the eastern part of the complex. It is linked
to the courtyard of Bet Mekorios by a 35 metre long tunnel and has the most intricate
external ornamentation. Bet Emanuel is perhaps the finest; its elaborate exterior is much
praised by art historians. The structure contains a large hall with four pillars, and its
irregularly placed windows arc Axumite in style, as are the walls. A spiral staircase leads
up to an upper storey.
Chambers and cavities for sacred bees in the outer wall of the courtyard are a
reminder of the bees that prophesied kingship to Lalibela. Some of the chambers,
however, are the graves of monks and pilgrims who wanted to be buried in this ‘holy
city’.
Bet Meskel
(Church of the Cross) This is a grotto church, partially carved out of the rock, and whose
façade is level with the north wall of the courtyard of Bet Maryam.
Bet Merkorios
(Church of Saint Mercurios) This is a partial grotto church in the eastern part of the
complex, with eight roughly hewn pillars in its façade.
Bahir Dar
Bahar Dar is a small town set on the south – eastern shore of Lake Tana, where local
fishermen still use papyrus boats, and just 30 km from the spectacular Tissisat Falls. Here
the Blue Nile creates “Smoking Water” an awe-inspiring sight as it plunges into the gorge
below. The Blue Nile Falls consist of four separate streams that plunge up to 45m over a
formation of solidified lava.
The remote islands and forested peninsulas of Lake Tana are home to some of Ethiopia’s
most venerated monastic churches. The antiquity of these monasteries is difficult to
ascertain, but most probably date to the thirteenth and fourteenth century, and some
may be a lot older, with Tana Kirkos in particular likely to have started life as a Judaic
temple in Aksumite times. The Lake Tana monasteries are generally of limited
architectural interest, certainly by comparison to the rock-hewn churches of Tigrai or
Lalibela, but some host superb examples of Ethiopia’s ecclesiastical art, and many also
have treasuries filled with ancient books and other artefacts. The lake itself also plays host
to plenty of birds, ranging from stately pelicans and herons to vociferous fish eagles and
darting kingfishers.The colourful local market at Bahir Dar is renowned for its weavers and
wood workers.
Axum
The legacy of the Queen of Sheba lies just below the shifting sands, and churches hewn
out of sheer rock attracting wide-eyed tourists. The African nation’s historic route begins
in the ancient city of Axum, which dates to about 100 B.C. This capital city was the first
place in Ethiopia to adopt a new religion — Christianity. According to the Old Testament,
The Queen of Sheba was born in Axum, but travelled to Israel to meet King Solomon. They
had a son named Menelik, who later became the first emperor of Ethiopia. Menelik
brought the original Arc of the Covenant back to Ethiopia from Israel. Today, the Arc,
which once housed the Ten Commandments, remains well hidden in Axum. It is guarded
by a select group of monks, whose sole commitment is to protect the sacred vessel. Axum
is also known for its massive, towering sculpture s that are more than two thousand years
old. Their significance is still under investigation by archaeologists.
All that remains now of Axum’s past glories are the huge granite stelae (pillars), some
fallen and some still perpendicular. Made of single blocks of granite, the tallest stood over
33 metres high – the largest monolith in the world. The biggest now standing is 23 metres
high.
The 16th century Church of St Mary of Zion is the holiest Christian sanctuary in Ethiopia,
and Ethiopians believe that the church houses the Ark of the Covenant, containing the
tablets on which Moses wrote the Ten Commandments. Menelik is reputed to have
brought it to Axum, along with 12,000 Jewish children. The Chapel is constantly guarded
by monks.
The Grave of King Kaleb and the Grave of King Gabre, the reputed Bath and ruins of a
palace attributed to the Queen of Sheba, and a Museum are other historical
attractions in the town. The entrance stairs and floor plan of this palace are intact and it
is estimated to have had over 50 rooms.
ROCK HEWN CHURCHES OF GHERALTA
The Gheralta region of Tigray has more than 120 rock-hewn churches, each with its own
unique ancient murals and relics. You don’t have to be a person of faith to be moved
by the way a culture has preserved its history and heritage.
The rock churches in and around Gheralta, scattered unevenly are famous for their
stone workmanship, ancient paintings and old manuscripts, and others known for their
magnificent view and difficult ascent. Such great churches as Abune Yemata (Guh),
Mariam Korkor, Debretsion (Abune Abraham), Yohhanes Maequddi, Abune Gebre
Mikael and Selassie Degum are in the very heart of Gheralta, making it the home of
rock churches.
ABUNA YEMATA GUH
There’s nowhere on earth quite like Abuna Yemata Guh. Although less impressive
architecturally than most, the church is spectacularly sited within a cliff face, halfway
up a sheer rock pinnacle 4km west of Megab. The first 45 minutes of the climb is mildly
challenging, with a couple of tricky sheer sections requiring toe hold action. The last two
minutes require nerves of steel to make the final scramble and precarious ledge walk
over a 200m drop.
MIKAEL DEBRE SELAM
This church or ‘church within a church’ has an exceptional brown-and-white, Aksumitestyle facade fronting its inner rock-hewn section. The bright, modern paintings at the
front and its beautiful carved arch add an odd but interesting contrast. The 45-minute,
one-way climb is strenuous but otherwise not difficult.
MARYAM KORKOR
This impressive, cross-shaped church is known for its architectural features (cruciform
pillars, arches and cupolas), fine 17th-century frescos and church treasures. It’s also one
of the largest churches in the area. The path begins around 1km from the road just
southeast of Megab and involves a fairly steep one-hour ascent. Maryam Korkor is
easily combined with nearby Abuna Yemata Guh into an all-day trek from Megab.
HARRAR
The fortified historic town of Harar is located in the eastern part of the country on a
plateau with deep gorges surrounded by deserts and savannah. The walls surrounding
this sacred Muslim city were built between the 13th and 16th centuries. Harar Jugol, said
to be the fourth holiest city of Islam, numbers 82 mosques, three of which date from the
10th century, and 102 shrines, but the townhouses with their exceptional interior design
constitute the most spectacular part of Harar’s cultural heritage. The impact of African
and Islamic traditions on the development of the town’s building types and urban
layout make for its particular character and uniqueness.
The walls surrounding this sacred city, considered “the fourth holy city” of Islam, were
built between the 13th and 16th centuries and served as a protective barrier. There
were five historic gates, which corresponded to the main roads to the town and also
served to divide the city into five neighbourhoods, but this division is not functional
anymore. The Harar gate, from where the main streets lead to the centre, is of recent
construction.
A long-standing tradition of feeding meat to spotted hyenas also evolved during the
1960s into an impressive night show for tourists.
Legend has it that at dusk/nightfall wild hyenas roamed the streets of Harar scavenging
and looking for food. The locals decided to befriend them and tried to tame them
hoping to prevent the hyenas from attacking the inhabitants. The hyenas now turn up
at dusk and are ready for a live show which they are the stars of. The hyenas, in their
innocent lives, are unaware of how popular or cool their activity has become.
AL-NEJASHI
The Nejashi Mosque is one of the world’s earliest mosques, built in the sixth century by
the companions of Prophet Mohammed, who – exiled from Arabia by the Qurayshi
pagans – came to Ethiopia, where they found a welcome refuge. Ethiopia’s King
Nejashi [for whom the mosque was named] was a benevolent king, who was credited
for saving the Prophet’s companions from persecution when they arrived in his land.
Located in the town of Wukro in northern Ethiopia’s Tigray State some 800 kilometers
from Addis Ababa,
The site also hosts the tombs of the 15 companions of Prophet Muhamamd, who
introduced Islam to Ethiopia.
